The importance of a good design sheet
The design sheet must contain the drawing of the front and the back with the stitching and details suitable to intuit the finishes of the garment (buttons, rugs, belt loops, etc.). In this way, we will save time on questions that, if we had done previous work, would be unnecessary.
If the drawings are flat, it is important that there is some guideline measure. Especially in garment lengths and / or measures of design details (pocket length, placket length, cuff length, neck length, etc.). It is also important to specify the volume of the garment (tight, loose, extra-loose, etc.) although, of course, the drawing must have the desired “air”.
If the drawings are on a mannequin, the proportions look perfectly, since we have the eye trained for it. The volume of the garment is also better seen, so the gaps are clearer.
Why do we have fabrics with different reactions?
There are two main fabric groups: flat woven fabrics (like popelin) and circular knitting fabrics (like plain knit). If they belong to the same group, we can use the same pattern for different models, always taking into account whether the fabric contains elastan (lycra) or not. If they don’t belong to the same group the patterns will not be the same, since the behavior of the fabric used is very different.
It is very important to keep this in mind!
How to save time on fittings
In the same way that it is good to prepare a business meeting to optimize our time and focus on what is important, a previous work before fitting is essential to achieve good final results in our model.
It is important for the garment to be measured prior to fitting. This way, the pattern maker can objectively expose the observed differences in measurements. Photos of the model are taken afterwards and everything that should be improved is picked up quickly and easily. In the event that the design has to be modified, it greatly helps the fact that the designer or the customer previously does this measurement work with the physical garment. This means that there are no last minute doubts or misunderstandings and the time per garment is drastically reduced (to between 10 and 15 minutes).
The importance of applying shrinkage to patterns
Since every fabric has a different behavior, it is important to do shrink tests on the specific production fabric and apply them to the finished patterns.
The behavior of two different rolls of the same production fabric may even give us uneven results!!! That’s why these tests are crucial to avoid the displeasure of having to assume the cost of garments that cannot be marketed because of this mistake (which can be very high if there are many units produced).
How to calculate the% shrinkage of a specific fabric
A 50 x 50cms square is cut. Note where the weft is (width of the fabric) and where the warp is (thread or length of the fabric). The garment is washed, or its dye is applied and, once it dries, the square is measured again. We then apply a rule of three.
Applying the following correction to the pattern for this fabric:
6% long and 10% wide (the pattern grows now, because after washing/ dying later it will shrink)